You've heard retinol is great at fighting wrinkles, but did you know it could also prevent acne and shrink pores? We asked Joshua Zeichner, MD, dermatologist and director of cosmetic research at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City, to tell us everything we need to know about the power player ingredient.
It reduces your pores.
While you can't technically shrink your pores (thanks, genetics), retinol can make them appear smaller. See, dead skin cells tend to accumulate around your pores, making them look larger than they actually are. Retinol helps to slough off the dead skin, allowing your pores to breath and preventing dirt and makeup from getting trapped inside.
It can cause irritation.
When retinol is applied to the skin it stimulates retinoid receptors in the skin's cells, increasing your cell turnover, which gives you dry, flaky skin. That's why your skin undergoes an adjustment period during the first two to four weeks of application. To ensure a smooth transition, prime skin with a moisturizer and only apply every other night.
You don't need a ton.
The phrase "a little goes a long way" definitely rings true with this ultra potent ingredient. Zeichner recommends a pea-size amount for your entire face. This will not only make the product last longer, it'll also help reduce skin irritation.
Retinol and retinoids are different.
Retinoids is an umbrella term for all vitamin A derivative ingredients. While prescription formulas have a stronger chemical structure and higher concentrations of retinol, you can also get retinol in over-the-counter products (we like Strivectin Advanced Retinol Night Treatment and SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0). Prescription forms of retinol include tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene. Ingredients to look for in over-the-counter products include topical retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl propionate, and palmitate. While all of these work, products containing "retinol" are going to be the strongest.
It reduces acne.
Some of retinol's benefits include opening clogged pores, reducing inflammation (as long as you don't overdo it), and breaking apart sticky skin cells that can cover pores. Conveniently enough, these are all things that also help prevent acne.
You need to practice sun safety.
Along with sensitivity, retinol can also cause skin to be more susceptible to sunburn, so be sure to use a sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) in your daily routine. Because UV light can inactivate retinol's benefits, it's best to apply it at night before going to bed.
Monday, March 2, 2015
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